TYPES OF ENGINE OIL: VISCOSITY, SYNTHETIC, MINERAL ETC
As you know, several types of oil are available in stores. But what differences do they have and which one to choose for your car?
Why choose a quality oil for my car?
Before seeing the differences between the oils on the shelf, it is important to remember that the quality of the oil is important as a factor for the health of your engine. In addition to lubricating the pistons, it will also have the role (among others) of oiling the bearing / bearing of the turbo, a "thing" that turns to several tens or hundreds of thousands of revolutions per minute ... You will understand that at such speeds, it is important that the oil is flawless! Therefore, it would be interesting to know how many broken turbos are the cause of poor lubrication (low quality oil, too old that would have lost its properties over time etc ...). So if your engine is supercharged (which may be the case given the number of turbo-diesel in France ...), the quality of the oil is even more vital. Finally, quality synthetic oils keep their properties longer and thus allow space to drain, thanks in part to their many additives that strengthen.
Finally, be aware that it is cold engine that wears more: having an effective oil at low temperatures will largely help reduce this effect.
Synthesis, mineral and semi-synthesis
This is the easiest point to understand since this is the nature / source of the oil for lubrication. The mineral comes from processed / refined oil, so it can be said that it comes from plants that have broken down in several million years. Not to be confused with vegetable oil which can be used as fuel in diesel engines.
Best Synthetic Motor oil has therefore been synthesized by man, but like the mineral, it also usually comes from oil (but also from vegetable oil and various other sources). The difference is that refining (processing) is much more technical and elaborate. As a result, the oil is set to the millimeter by the engineers who give it almost perfect properties!
Synthesis or mineral?
Concretely, the best synthetic motor oil will be of better quality but also more expensive (useless or even harmful on the very old vehicles, more infos here) ... If you drive in difficult conditions (climates, driving "muscular" / sporty), it will be even more important to opt for a 100% synthetic oil. This type of oil also tends to reduce consumption (and therefore also CO2 emissions) because it works better cold (where the engines consume the most) and has anti-friction additive. If your trips are usually short, it will be even more recommended. Also, this type of lubricant works better at high temperature (hot engine) but also at high pressure, knowing also that deposits in the engine are more limited than with natural / mineral oil. As a result, the oil has more endurance and the oil changes can be a little more spaced. In addition, the natural oil will need to
In short, if you like your car, take a synthesis! But this may be different in a few years since the arrival of GMOs can concoct plants generating a natural oil with very good characteristics.
Viscosity of the oil
Let us specify that the viscosity of a liquid is established with a precise measurement determined by the Society of Automotive Engineer (SAE).
Older oils had a single viscosity index (eg SAE 15W or SAE 20). The latter therefore saw their viscosity vary more between hot and cold, so it needed an oil for the summer and an oil for the winter ... Since then, there are only multi-grade versions in radius, whose viscosity varies less according to the temperature, hence the two numbers with for example 5W30 (here we have a precision for the viscosity cold and hot).
xW: cold viscosity
Now let's see the viscosity of the oil which is indicated by this value: xW. The W indicating Winter, the data before (ex 10W) indicates its cold viscosity and therefore its ability to withstand the cold (to remain liquid / fluid, because as in your stoves, the oil tends to harden when it cools ...). As a result, the lower the number, the better the oil will work in the cold. We can also say that the lower the number, the more the oil can be exposed to cold temperatures without risking damaging the engine (and the easier it will be to start the way). If you are in the mountains or go skiing regularly, it would be better if the latter is the smallest possible (0 is perfect).
Basically, a 0W oil will hold up to -40 °, a 5W down to -30 °, 10W down to -20 ° (or -25) and 15W down to -15 °. You will need to avoid going above 10W if it is very cool in your area. With 5W you are sure to never have a problem in our beautiful country! Even in the mountains.
Wx: hot viscosity (100 ° for the standard)
If the second numberis higher, the more viscous oil hot, so less liquid. So the higher the value, the better the oil withstands high temperatures and avoids being too liquid. Because it must not be too much ...
Deepen the subject of viscosity (with images and diagrams) by clicking here
Guarantee quality?
Standards have been introduced to assess the quality of an oil. For gasoline it goes from A1-98 A3-98 knowing that the more the number stuck to the A is important, the better the quality (A1 for the entry level and A3 to have the top). For diesel, it goes from B1 to B3.
Old car ?
No need to take particularly fluid or synthetic oil such as 5W30. It can sometimes be a little more harmful, so first find out what the engine needs before you want to take the lead by buying an oil that you think would be better.
An adaptation can however be made if the engine is very kilometric / used: click here to know more about the oils for old and very old .
Particle filter ?
Having a FAP requires you not to neglect the quality of your oil. A conventional oil will send to the exhaust (because there is always a tiny quantity burned) particles that can end up clogging it. As a result, a so-called LOW SAPS oil with a reduced level of sulphated ash content is required (generally referred to as ACEA B5 / C1 / C2 / C3 / C4). In addition, it will also preserve at the same time the catalyst (present on gasoline and diesel unlike FAP which exists only on diesel).
Special oil for my car?
Beware, some brands impose a particular standard established by the brand itself. This is for example the case with some brands such as Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda TDI which requires an oil with the index 505.01 indicated above. The use of another oil may lead to the consumption of the latter and to a less optimal operation of the engine. However, there is usually nothing very catastrophic about putting another even if it is obviously not recommended.
Why choose a quality oil for my car?
Before seeing the differences between the oils on the shelf, it is important to remember that the quality of the oil is important as a factor for the health of your engine. In addition to lubricating the pistons, it will also have the role (among others) of oiling the bearing / bearing of the turbo, a "thing" that turns to several tens or hundreds of thousands of revolutions per minute ... You will understand that at such speeds, it is important that the oil is flawless! Therefore, it would be interesting to know how many broken turbos are the cause of poor lubrication (low quality oil, too old that would have lost its properties over time etc ...). So if your engine is supercharged (which may be the case given the number of turbo-diesel in France ...), the quality of the oil is even more vital. Finally, quality synthetic oils keep their properties longer and thus allow space to drain, thanks in part to their many additives that strengthen.
Finally, be aware that it is cold engine that wears more: having an effective oil at low temperatures will largely help reduce this effect.
Synthesis, mineral and semi-synthesis
This is the easiest point to understand since this is the nature / source of the oil for lubrication. The mineral comes from processed / refined oil, so it can be said that it comes from plants that have broken down in several million years. Not to be confused with vegetable oil which can be used as fuel in diesel engines.
Best Synthetic Motor oil has therefore been synthesized by man, but like the mineral, it also usually comes from oil (but also from vegetable oil and various other sources). The difference is that refining (processing) is much more technical and elaborate. As a result, the oil is set to the millimeter by the engineers who give it almost perfect properties!
Synthesis or mineral?
Concretely, the best synthetic motor oil will be of better quality but also more expensive (useless or even harmful on the very old vehicles, more infos here) ... If you drive in difficult conditions (climates, driving "muscular" / sporty), it will be even more important to opt for a 100% synthetic oil. This type of oil also tends to reduce consumption (and therefore also CO2 emissions) because it works better cold (where the engines consume the most) and has anti-friction additive. If your trips are usually short, it will be even more recommended. Also, this type of lubricant works better at high temperature (hot engine) but also at high pressure, knowing also that deposits in the engine are more limited than with natural / mineral oil. As a result, the oil has more endurance and the oil changes can be a little more spaced. In addition, the natural oil will need to
In short, if you like your car, take a synthesis! But this may be different in a few years since the arrival of GMOs can concoct plants generating a natural oil with very good characteristics.
Viscosity of the oil
Let us specify that the viscosity of a liquid is established with a precise measurement determined by the Society of Automotive Engineer (SAE).
Older oils had a single viscosity index (eg SAE 15W or SAE 20). The latter therefore saw their viscosity vary more between hot and cold, so it needed an oil for the summer and an oil for the winter ... Since then, there are only multi-grade versions in radius, whose viscosity varies less according to the temperature, hence the two numbers with for example 5W30 (here we have a precision for the viscosity cold and hot).
xW: cold viscosity
Now let's see the viscosity of the oil which is indicated by this value: xW. The W indicating Winter, the data before (ex 10W) indicates its cold viscosity and therefore its ability to withstand the cold (to remain liquid / fluid, because as in your stoves, the oil tends to harden when it cools ...). As a result, the lower the number, the better the oil will work in the cold. We can also say that the lower the number, the more the oil can be exposed to cold temperatures without risking damaging the engine (and the easier it will be to start the way). If you are in the mountains or go skiing regularly, it would be better if the latter is the smallest possible (0 is perfect).
Basically, a 0W oil will hold up to -40 °, a 5W down to -30 °, 10W down to -20 ° (or -25) and 15W down to -15 °. You will need to avoid going above 10W if it is very cool in your area. With 5W you are sure to never have a problem in our beautiful country! Even in the mountains.
Wx: hot viscosity (100 ° for the standard)
If the second numberis higher, the more viscous oil hot, so less liquid. So the higher the value, the better the oil withstands high temperatures and avoids being too liquid. Because it must not be too much ...
Deepen the subject of viscosity (with images and diagrams) by clicking here
Guarantee quality?
Standards have been introduced to assess the quality of an oil. For gasoline it goes from A1-98 A3-98 knowing that the more the number stuck to the A is important, the better the quality (A1 for the entry level and A3 to have the top). For diesel, it goes from B1 to B3.
Old car ?
No need to take particularly fluid or synthetic oil such as 5W30. It can sometimes be a little more harmful, so first find out what the engine needs before you want to take the lead by buying an oil that you think would be better.
An adaptation can however be made if the engine is very kilometric / used: click here to know more about the oils for old and very old .
Particle filter ?
Having a FAP requires you not to neglect the quality of your oil. A conventional oil will send to the exhaust (because there is always a tiny quantity burned) particles that can end up clogging it. As a result, a so-called LOW SAPS oil with a reduced level of sulphated ash content is required (generally referred to as ACEA B5 / C1 / C2 / C3 / C4). In addition, it will also preserve at the same time the catalyst (present on gasoline and diesel unlike FAP which exists only on diesel).
Special oil for my car?
Beware, some brands impose a particular standard established by the brand itself. This is for example the case with some brands such as Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda TDI which requires an oil with the index 505.01 indicated above. The use of another oil may lead to the consumption of the latter and to a less optimal operation of the engine. However, there is usually nothing very catastrophic about putting another even if it is obviously not recommended.
HOW TO PROPERLY MAINTAIN A CAR?
The ideal maintenance of a vehicle is unfortunately not limited to a simple oil change every 10,000 km . Indeed, many points are to be regularly checked although it is not necessary to believe that maintaining a car is a real headache even if it suits the manufacturers to make you believe
Maintenance to be done every 10 000 km or 12 months
Note that the lubrication system is the only maintenance that must obsess you! This fluid is a bit like your blood, if it fails it is the whole life of the engine that is at stake. It must therefore be an oil that is not too old (oxidation over time) or too much kilometer (shearing of the oil that loses its properties). Changing the filters also prevents clogging and therefore a gene in the circulation of the oil (the oil pressure and therefore the state of the pump is also something important to watch, all warning light regarding oil should alert you and should not be taken lightly).
Maintenance to be done every 30 000 km or 2 years
(Reminder: The technical control is required every two years on cars special and a test pollution should be done every year for vehicle sales )
Maintenance to be done every 60 000 km or three years
Maintenance to be done every 10 000 km or 12 months
- Drain the engine oil
- Changing the oil filter
- Change of pollen filter (cabin filter) , 10,000 km in urban areas and 25,000 km in rural areas
- Naked eye check of discs and brake pads
- Check the battery without disconnecting it if it is a recent car because the car could then be immobilized by the immobilizer.
Note that the lubrication system is the only maintenance that must obsess you! This fluid is a bit like your blood, if it fails it is the whole life of the engine that is at stake. It must therefore be an oil that is not too old (oxidation over time) or too much kilometer (shearing of the oil that loses its properties). Changing the filters also prevents clogging and therefore a gene in the circulation of the oil (the oil pressure and therefore the state of the pump is also something important to watch, all warning light regarding oil should alert you and should not be taken lightly).
Maintenance to be done every 30 000 km or 2 years
(Reminder: The technical control is required every two years on cars special and a test pollution should be done every year for vehicle sales )
- Bleed the coolant and check the circuit for leakage
- Bleed the brake fluid and check the circuit for leakage
- Verification of timing belts and accessories (attention, out of the timing belt usually leads to an engine failure.)
- Check the exhaust line (rust and tightness)
- Check the oil level of the gearbox
- Verification of gimbal bellows
- Control of transmission bellows
- Check the motor hoses , if they are cracked they must be replaced as soon as possible.
Maintenance to be done every 60 000 km or three years
- Change of spark plugs on gasoline engines (bad spark plug = bad combustion = fouling = overconsumption)
- Change the fuel filter on engines diesel
- Changing the timing belt and accessory belt
- Check the fluid (or fluid) of power steering
- Changing the air filter
- Emptying the automatic gearbox (except the so-called "long life" oil, never to be drained)